6.02.2007

These Latvians Know How to Live

After an hour and a half in the air, you arrive in Riga, only to find a quiet airport, civilized lines at customs and notable lack of burly cab drivers incessantly chanting "taxi" upon your exit. It is a breath of fresh air. Outside, cabs, all the same model and color wait in line - there is no honking, double parking, parking on the sidewalk at a 45 degree angle, or any of the other Soviet behavior.

The center of Riga is picturesque, a cross between Krakow and Oslo, with networks of charming cobblestone streets, pastel townhouses and more churches than you can count. A walk north or south leads to ėstuaries, lined with treės and monuments. There is not a speck of litter in sight. No one pushes ahead in line and people say "please" and "thank you." It is hard to believe this is the FSU.

Tragically, during summer months, Riga is becoming invaded by stag parties, the Brits answer to bachelor/ette celebrations. Drunk English and Irish groups roam the streets at night and can get a bit irritating, but they are easy enough to avoid.

Of course, Latvian cuisine has been influenced by years of Slavic occupation, and a chain called "Pelmeni" serves dumplings of various varieties. Other staples include pork, tomatoes and cucumbers and lots of dill and parsely. Black Balzam, a medicinal berry flavored alcohol, mixed with berry juice or coffee, is the traditional beverage, although one glass is probably enough to last you a lifetime.

All in all, Riga is a welcome respite. A movie theatre shows "Pirates of the Carribean 3"°in English, which is a godsend, since my friend S and I haven't seen an American movie in months.
Tomorrow, we head to Tallinn, the more attractive, older sister of the Baltic capitals.

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