Graffiti

One thing that has surprised me on this trip is the excessive amount of graffiti everywhere - and it's not just juvinile vandalism, but extensive murals in multiple colors that go on forever. When you arrive at the North train station in Budapest, you see a wall the spans the distance from the suburbs to the center. It is only about 4 feet high, but every square inch is covered in multi-colored bold graffiti art. It reminds me of 80s NYC. I have encountered it in Bratislava (to a lesser degree), Vienna and Prague (to an equal degree). I think I know what to expect in Berlin.

So, I made it to Vienna Wednesday morning. Vienna is prettier and more interesting than I had remembered. I visisted the Naschmarket (main market) which was pretty and not too overpriced (I treated myself to a Kebap- yes this is shashlik in German). I moved on to the Kaisergruft, which contained the coffins of the Hapsburg monarchy, including Empress Elizabeth (Sissi), with whom they are obsessed. It is not really apparent why - married to Franz Joseph at 15, she went on to birth three children and later, as she became older, became fixated on her appearance. Her apartment in the Hofsburg palace contains a device that pressed the "juice" out of raw veal (this was supposed to cut calories?) and "gym" equipment that consisted of a wooden ladder and a wooden pull up bar. Since her waist was 18 inches, I suspect the majority of her health relatved activities involved starving.

My next stop was to Stephansdom, the major cathedral in the center that includes rooms of catacombs below, the oldest of which are said to house the remains of plague victims. There are rooms with bones stacked from floor to ceiling and, oddly enough, they are organized by bone type. A corner for skulls, tibias, femurs, etc. The rest of my day was consumed with aimless wandering and shopping, two of my favorite pastimes. Thursday morning was especially painful, since my train left at 6am. I got up around 430, shlepped the train station, but was lucky enough to find a car to myself. I stretched out and napped until we arrived in Prague around 1030, waking briefly for customs and ticket inspections.

I had never been to Prague, although I had heard so much about it, namely how spectacular it is, that I suppose I had been set up for a let down. Prague, like most former communist cities, is somewhat ugly, if you leave Stare Mesto. Parts of Nove Mesto are pretty, but a lot consists of old, run down apartment buildings. Admittedly, I have not seen much in the way of socialist realist architecture or art, but Prague definitely feels Eastern European. I spent yesterday doing the typical tourist routine - trip to the center (Old Town Square, Tyn Church, St. Nicholas Church, Pinkas Synagogue, Jewish Cemetary, etc.). By 6, I was exhausted, since I've spent the last five days shelpping, so I headed back to the hostel. Stopped at the local grocery store, since there's nothing quite as satisfying as eating when you're showered and in your pajamas.

This morning, I am writing from a internet cafe/laundromat I found in one of my guides. It's a little tough to explain "spin cycle" in Czech, especially when you don't speak Czech, but I'm making do. My plans for the afternoon involve a walk across the Charles bridge, a stop at the Museum of Medieval Torture (I know, I'm morbid) and a tour of the Prague Castle. I am debating whether to check out the Mucha museum. I know it's historically important, but I find his art cartoon-y and overrated. Certainly overexposed.

Anyway, I am leaving for Berlin tomorrow morning, for my last round of hostel staying/shlepping. Can't believe I'm saying this, but I almost miss Kyiv.